According to these less-is-more experts, the dopamine-boosting effects of ultra-fast fashion far outweigh the health rewards of a capsule wardrobe.

German industrial designer Dieter Rams wrote in his 1994 book Weniger, Aber Besser that “good design is about as little as possible. Less is better, because it focuses on the essential aspects.” He was talking about product design principles, but this theory can just as easily be applied to our wardrobes; In particular, there has been an alarming increase in the amount of clothing we buy in the decades since the Rams’ announcement, associated with a decline in quality and durability. Between 80 billion and 150 billion new pieces of clothing are produced worldwide each year and we now purchase them individually. Five times more clothes Like we did in the 1980s, we often wear items about seven to 10 times before throwing them away (one 36% decrease from 15 years ago).

This is largely due to the proliferation of cleverly targeted online ads, an ever-changing cycle of trends driven by social media, and the burgeoning ultra-fast fashion market that encourages buyers to buy more for less and get short-lived dopamine. -rising rewards. However, it is undeniable that clothes have the power to make us feel good.

“So much of fashion is about innovation,” fashion writer and sustainability strategist Tiffanie Darke tells the BBC. “As creatures, we’re always trying to move forward and reinvent ourselves, whether it’s a new season, a new year’s resolution or a new job. We want to improve ourselves personally, and clothes are a really important part of that.” And Darke, who is also interim CEO smart works A charity that gives women job interview advice and donates clothes has found that this can still be achieved with a “less is more” mentality. According to a review in The Journal of Positive Psychology, this is not only an approach that benefits the planet, but also Minimalism, Voluntary Simplicity and Prosperity – our own mental health. In November 2022, a report The report, published by The Hot or Cool Institute, found that British consumers must commit to buying no more than five new clothes a year if the fashion industry is to meet its target of limiting global warming to 1.5 degrees by 2030.

Shocked by this statistic, Darke shared the now-viral Rule of Five A campaign that invites others to join the mission to buy only five new items (excluding socks and underwear) and four second-hand items a year. “Interestingly, although I started the campaign for climate reasons, the biggest response from people who chose to join me was that they were genuinely fed up with buying so much. People feel their shopping is getting out of control: ‘You’re being driven to buy more and more, which ultimately leaves you feeling empty and deprived. Why does it happen?”

In September of this year, Darke released: What to Wear and Whya book that offers a sickening perspective on the damage that shopping addiction is doing to the planet, as well as how to compile a mindful, always stylish collection of clothes that will completely free you from the bonds of fashion consumption – all wrapped up in one of your own experiences while adhering to the Rule of Five.

The first step, she says, is to create a capsule wardrobe; A selection of essential pieces that are not only functional and designed to last, but also fit you perfectly and make you feel your best. He’s an advocate of what he calls the 80/20 rule (where 80% of your wardrobe consists of “useful, basic classics” and the other 20% consists of more expressive “personality pieces”) Darke’s wardrobe It revolves around 10 essentials, from a white cotton shirt and a smart jacket to a pair of comfortable trousers and a fun knit.

“My capsule wardrobe has been a really helpful guide,” she says. “Of course, it’s different for everyone, depending on your circumstances, your job, what climate you live in… but they actually say you only wear 10 or 20 items on cycle at any given time, depending on the time of year. So a good starting point is what you always wear, It’s usually just looking at things that are super functional and you’ll quickly create your own list.” She explains that most of her ten new purchases in the last two years have consisted of capsule items, as well as an absolutely pointless pair of gold trousers and a “totally see-through” black crochet skirt.

Another useful guide when it comes to conscious shopping is How to Wear EverythingNew release from Net-a-Porter’s fashion director Kay Barron and Mr. Porter. Contributions from some of fashion’s biggest names, including stylist Sarah Jessica Parker (talking shoes, no less) Law Cockroach Co-written by Jodie Turner Smith (responsible for Zendaya’s most iconic outfits) and Jodie Turner Smith (the doyenne of colorful dressing), the book guides readers through the process of building the perfect wardrobe, from the oft-dreaded task of finding the right pair of jeans to understanding your personal style. thrift shopping tips, dressing for special occasions and more.

The best place to start, according to Barron, is to do what she calls a “wardrobe edit”; this task, he says, should be undertaken “in a good mood, with plenty of time and patience.” “Take out everything in your wardrobe and try it on,” he tells the BBC. “Then, when you put together outfits of things you love to wear, you can see what’s missing.” He recommends making a list of these “missing” items on your phone and using that to inform future purchases. Indeed, one of Barron’s top tips is to plan ahead: “If you can afford it, it’s better to buy something you love in the moment rather than panic shopping when you have a deadline like a holiday or a wedding. It’s like shopping hungover and hungry.” This will result in really bad decisions and spending a lot more money!”

Organizing a wardrobe serves multiple purposes: it also allows you to “shop” through your existing purchases. “When you rediscover something amazing you already have, it’s the best feeling in the world,” Barron enthuses, adding that because trend cycles turn so quickly, it’s a good idea to hold on to things like denim “because low-rise boyfriend jeans and skinny jeans will inevitably fade.” is coming back into fashion”.

Darke also looks to her pre-existing wardrobe for new ideas. “You only wear 30% of what you own, and even now I only wear 50% or 60% of it,” he says. “The Rule of Five inspires you to be much more creative and resourceful. Suddenly, you realize there are old dresses you haven’t worn in a long time that you can turn into something else.” He also points out the new friendships he has made since the start of the campaign, from the tailor to the team who have helped him with the changes to the squad. Save Your Wardrobe helping with everything from repairing moth holes to giving new life to old pieces.

Rental companies such as By Rotation and My Wardrobe HQ are also an option that both experts advocate not only for one-off events but also as a trial tool. “We’re inundated with different people’s styles on social media; it’s always new, new, new, and it’s easy to get drowned in it and question what your own style is,” Barron says. “Renting is a great, commitment-free way to try something out.” She also recommends starting small as a way to have fun and test the waters for a new look, citing her new “Kermit the Frog” heels in lime green, which she says she would “never wear next to my skin or my face.”

Barron and Darke aren’t the only industry powerhouses currently campaigning for meaningful change without compromising the joy clothing can bring. This year, designer and British Sewing Bee judge Patrick Grant Less: Stop Buying So Much TrashA book that explores the rise of mass consumption and how “having fewer, better things can make us happier.” And SufficiencyFashion editor Melanie Rickey’s intriguing new podcast sees guests identify what’s “just right” (here’s a reference to this) Goldilocks Principle) looks like them and how achieving this balance improves their lives.

Rickey’s interviewees so far include chef Yotam Ottelenghi, who describes his small-kitchen arsenal, and sustainable fashion influencers. Aja Barber And Brett Stanilandwho come up with their own methodology when it comes to adopting the less-is-more wardrobe. “The aim of the series is to gradually shift our mindset towards buying less but better (and experiencing this as an exciting pursuit, a game with only positive outcomes),” Rickey told the BBC. “Stopping endless desire has an incredibly positive impact on all areas of life.” The main result, he notes, is that you make better decisions and feel better about making them. “Doing valuable things increases your self-esteem,” she says. “Less stuff makes room for more money, more time to experience life, and more play with what you already have.”

Darke agrees wholeheartedly. “You can’t sell anything on the fact that it’s sustainable alone; we live in a society where no one wants to live on less. It’s about looking at what you’ll gain from this approach, as well as its positive impact on the planet. And I’d say a) you’ll save a ton of money and b) that “It’s a really interesting exercise in self-knowledge. Being limited by your options forces you to think about who you are as you move through the world and how you want to show up, and that’s really empowering.”