Chefs love to play with classic dishes. Sometimes, the “tweak” or “twist”, as it’s called in food writing parlance, fails and we’re left wishing they’d just been left well enough alone. Does anyone really need mushrooms added to spaghetti carbonara? Knowing how to update a classic without ruining it requires talent, skill, and a certain sensitivity to contemporary tastes. That’s why the examples below make the cut.

shrimp toast

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