Located right above the harbor in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, a photogenic port city surrounded by centuries-old stone walls (built to repel English invasions), Hotel de Toiras houses a 17th-century shipwright’s house and an 11th-century tower (Adapted to a circular reading nook in the George Washington suite). Decorated with antique oil portraits, brass chandeliers and white paneling, the interiors are a tribute to maritime taste. Eighteen bedrooms are traditional; many have crown canopies and chintzes, and some have spectacular harbor views over the tidal dock. An interior courtyard is blooming with chin-high hydrangeas and Chinese plumbagos. Chateau ClarisseA winery in Bordeaux set in a creamy Italian marble bar, run by the hotel’s owners. Eggs are served for breakfast at George’s Restaurant (below), where you can watch the moored sailboats from the terrace.

A suite at Villa Clarisse.

Photo: Courtesy of Villa Clarisse

Located in a neat, cobbled back street, a five-minute walk south of the Hotel de Toiras and the pier, Villa Clarisse feels more like a home than a workplace and is often booked by travelers on long trips. Nine rooms and suites are spread throughout an 18th-century townhouse. A long, narrow garden filled with bee flowers and palm trees runs behind the house, and at the end of the lawn is a swimming pool and spa. There’s no on-site restaurant, but a home-style kitchen prepares Lacanche hot breakfasts and there’s a self-service bar in the evenings (just write down what you poured and they’ll bill you later). In keeping with the tranquil atmosphere, the interiors are bright and uncluttered: beadboards, whitewashed walls with wooden beams and stone details, and sheer curtains blowing in the wind.

Where to Eat

Le Serghi restaurant at sunset.

Photograph: Foulzer

Le Serghi, a stylish bistro next to the Clemenceau quayside, has a sophisticated, ingredient-driven menu with a focus on provenance; If you are interested, they will tell you exactly who bakes your bread and collects your daughters. Chef-owner Philippe Tredgeu had a lauded career in Paris before opening the restaurant with his wife, Marie Tredgeu-Foulon, in 2021. The terrace at the front has an expansive view of the harbour; A great perch to watch the sun set.

This immaculate deli opened in Saint-Clément-des-Baleines on the west side of the island in 2023 and has become the go-to place for picnic supplies. Ride with a basket on your arm for pickup herbs of provence Chocolate chip cookies with potato salad, stuffed tomatoes and black cumin seeds. There’s a good selection of wine for takeaway too (bring your own corkscrew).

Hotel de Toiras’s sun terrace restaurant is arranged so that guests can watch the tide move in and out, with low white sofas overlooking the pier and dining tables under large umbrellas. A large number of hotel guests dine here every day, but the attractive situation makes it a destination for people from all over the island. The food is good quality (escargot, foie gras, lobster ravioli) but the service is relaxed and accommodating. If you want to linger, no one will rush you daddy au rhum with a thick book.

What should we do

Cycling along the coastal path of Île de Ré.

Photo: Getty Images

Bike Rental

The first morning after arriving, head to the nearest bike rental point (they’re a dime a dozen) and book one for the duration of your trip. Much of the island is not accessible by car, and cycling is the best way to get around and explore. Although the terrain on Île de Ré is mostly flat, it’s spring for an electric bike; You’ll be grateful for the extra juice at the end of a long day. Make sure you have a lock and a large front basket.

Explore the Oyster Shacks

Oyster farming is a big industry on the island, and of course people have their favorite spots – La Cabane Océane in La Flotte-en-Ré is usually the first place on everyone’s lips – but the ideal shack is the one you usually come across. to be passing when the mood strikes. The northern shores and marshes are especially rich in oyster shacks; you’ll see these directly next to the bike lanes, usually with simple folding tables and chairs placed and bikes stacked near the entrance. Some of the restaurants are only open during the summer months, so it’s worth checking beforehand if you’re eyeing a particular location. Look for oyster vending machines, too (oysters are sold sealed, so be prepared to shuck them).

Wine Tasting

The island has over 1,500 acres of vineyards producing a wide variety of wines, Pineau (regional fortified wine) and cognac. Domain AricaLocated just outside Loix, with ocean views, it produces organic wines; It’s an unusually beautiful setting and you can take a bottle to a nearby beach to enjoy it. Many winemakers are members of a cooperative called Vignerons Ile de Ré, located in Le Bois Plage-en-Ré, which offers free tastings of a limited selection of local wines and spirits.