For hours, Baden-Württemberg moves northward over the Java Sea, heading towards the South China Sea. With four diesel engines and a gas turbine, the German frigate cruises at around 50 kilometers per hour.

We are just a few degrees south of the equator where night suddenly falls. Under a faint crescent the only light comes from the stars. The sea stretches endlessly, turning a dull blue. Distant bright spots appear on the horizon; fishing boats use spotlights to attract squid.

Only the control indicators glow faintly on the battleship’s bridge; route, speed, distance traveled, location. The screens with nautical charts and radar are dimmed to the lowest setting. An officer turns on his red headlight to check something in the file.

Nothing should block the view. The crew watches the waters ahead of the speeding steel giant with intense attention. Traffic is heavy; Small, wooden fishing boats are barely noticeable even on radar. A sharp eye is important. The officer on duty repeatedly raises his binoculars.

worldwide

Baden-Württemberg is embarking on a seven-month global journey as part of the German navy’s Indo-Pacific Position 2024. She is accompanied by the task force supply ship Frankfurt am Main, a floating refueling station, ammunition depot, warehouse and hospital.

However, the 20,000-ton supply ship lags behind the frigate’s rapid pace and follows at a slower pace.

Baden-Württemberg has reasons to hurry. The route from Jakarta to Singapore covers several hundred nautical miles throughout Indonesian territorial waters; Here, foreign warships are allowed only peaceful passage and no maneuvers are carried out.

This restriction also prevents the use of the frigate’s two Sea Lynx helicopters, which must remain in the hangar. However, technicians recently installed a new turbine in one of the aircraft and the aircraft was made ready for test flight at the first opportunity.

Germany defends Maritime Law

The 1982 UN Convention on the Law of the Sea determines where and how a warship like the Baden-Württemberg can operate. However, this legal framework is under pressure in the Indo-Pacific. China, in particular, often ignores international norms and asserts territorial claims contrary to these rules.

This tension is most evident in the South China Sea and Taiwan Strait, where German ships navigated during the Indo-Pacific mission.

The passage of Baden-Württemberg and Frankfurt am Main through the Taiwan Strait in September attracted great attention. Beijing claims jurisdiction over this strip of water, but under international maritime law, the strait, which is 130 kilometers wide at its narrowest point, is open to unrestricted passage of civilian and military ships from any country.

This legal stance would apply even if Beijing controlled Taiwan. However, China strongly opposes the passage of foreign warships through these waters.

Since the German ships were planned to visit Manila after Incheon, South Korea, the Taiwan Strait was the most practical route. However, no German warship had passed through this passage in more than two decades, and officials initially refused to confirm the route, stating that decisions would be made based on conditions at the time.

When two ships enter the strait German Defense Minister Boris Pistorius quotes X says: «International waters are international waters. This is the shortest route and the safest considering the weather conditions. That’s why we’re going to travel.”

The German navy constantly communicated its location on land, clarifying its position and allowing the voyage to be followed live online. This automatic identification system signal is required for ships over a certain size, but warships are allowed to turn it off.

China continues its dominance

“In these narrow, crowded waters, we wanted to be clearly visible as a unit for navigational safety,” explains Fleet Admiral Axel Schulz, who leads strategic command for the Indo-Pacific Position. «We demonstrate freedom of navigation in international waters and on the high seas.»

The Admiral states that Germany, as a trading country, relies on open trade routes. “Our well-being depends on it.” The impact of disrupted global shipping lanes was made clear in 2021, when the Ever Given blocked the Suez Canal. Delivery delays have rippled across the world, despite the vital route being closed for just six days.

American ships pass through the Taiwan Strait most frequently, but in recent years ships from Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Japan, England, the Netherlands and France have also used this route. Therefore, Germany’s transit was not a one-time event.

U.S. Navy representatives frequently report that the People’s Liberation Army navy is swarming American ships and maintaining an uncomfortably close distance. They accuse Chinese forces of “unprofessional” behavior. Did the German navy encounter similar behavior? “No, we were watched the whole way, but we did not encounter any threatening actions,” says Admiral Schulz. When pressed, he adds: “Personally, I would keep more distance for safety.”

This diplomatic statement implies that things are getting a little closer. Between the lines, it is clear that the Chinese navy aims to dominate with its overwhelming presence. But Schulz is tight-lipped about further details. The passage of the German navy through the Taiwan Strait is now complete.

Maritime borders are only visible on maps

Suddenly Baden-Württemberg slowed down. The 7,000-ton ship now glides almost silently across the clear, flat blue sea. The crew only know they are out of Indonesian waters thanks to digital nautical charts displayed on large screens on the bridge.

At the frigate’s stern, a helicopter crew begins the checklist and starts the turbine. The hum of the rotor becomes louder until the exercise is aborted. One key is not working. This test flight was designed to detect exactly such problems and ensure that the helicopter is fully operational.

Within half an hour, repairmen replaced the faulty switch. The second test was successful and the helicopter took off without any problems. While all is well, the pilots regain confidence in their aircraft by making several high-speed passes over the frigate’s bridge. Admiral Schulz waves at them and says: “The pilots want to have fun too.”

Practice makes perfect – sometimes with other navies

Suddenly an alarm sounds: “Man overboard!” The 150-metre Baden-Württemberg slows down and makes a wide turn. A large side hatch opens and a speedboat and crew are quickly deployed.

Meanwhile, a speedboat accelerates towards a life-size dummy floating in the water. A rescue diver dives into the water, pulls the “casualty” to safety and pulls him aboard. “Situation 1 Alpha” the radio rings out, announcing the doctor’s initial assessment and notifying the ship’s doctor to prepare.

Frigate Captain Sascha Huth, Baden-Württemberg’s commander, closely supervises the exercise and gives instructions with precision. Although he insisted on full implementation of the standards, today he was satisfied; the crew achieved the target time of under 10 minutes.

But Huth, a 25-year Navy veteran, warns against being swayed by calm, sunny conditions: “In windy and bad weather conditions, especially at night, just not missing the person overboard is a serious challenge.” According to Huth, only constant practice ensures that the crew is prepared for real emergencies.

Rescue mission with an international twist

Indo-Pacific Deployment often involves regular exercises with local navies. Both Schulz and Huth highlight Pacific Rim, or RIMPAC, as a personal turning point. This large-scale multinational exercise, led by the United States, involved 29 countries, 40 ships, 3 submarines, 170 aircraft and 25,000 personnel around Hawaii in July. Among the participants was the German navy.

On the voyage from San Diego to Hawaii, the German ships embarked with six units from the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Peru, forming a small squadron commanded by Admiral Schulz; this was a fleet unit befitting its status.

This is because only two German ships were normally commanded by a less senior officer. But a mission like the Indo-Pacific Deployment also has diplomatic significance. Representation is especially important in East Asia. That’s why Germany sent an admiral on this long journey.

According to Schulz, the Indo-Pacific Deployment offers a valuable opportunity to train with navies with which Germany rarely partners and promotes mutual learning and friendship.

Sometimes implementation turns into a real-world crisis. On our way to Hawaii, an urgent report came in. A Mexican sailor faced a potentially life-threatening situation due to a ruptured appendix. The nearest port was days away, well beyond helicopter range.

Enter Frankfurt am Main, equipped with a fully equipped maritime medical centre; A facility that resembles a regional hospital, with operating rooms and an intensive care unit. In addition to the ship’s doctor, the medical team also includes a surgeon, anesthetist and specialist nurses who are ready for operations at sea.

A helicopter belonging to the Mexican navy brought the patient to the plane. “Ninety minutes after the emergency call, the soldier was on the operating table,” says Schulz with visible pride. This is international cooperation in action. The sailor soon returned to his ship, his life was saved.

latest articles

Global reporting. Journalism of Swiss quality.

In today’s increasingly polarized media market, Switzerland-based NZZ offers a critical and fact-based outside perspective. We are not in the breaking news business. We deliver thoughtful, well-researched stories and analysis that go behind the headlines to explain relevant events in the US, Europe and around the world. To produce this work, NZZ builds an industry-leading network of specialist reporters around the world, working closely with our main newsroom in Zurich.

Sign up for us free newsletter or follow us excitement, Facebook or WhatsApp.