Most visitors to South Korea arrive on one of two islands: Yeongjongdo, home to the giant Incheon International Airport, or Jeju, the country’s largest; A major attraction in the South Sea with its volcanoes and untouched beaches. They often don’t realize that the peninsula is surrounded by a scattering of more than 3,000 other islands – some inhabited, others just rock cliffs that appear and disappear with the tides. The largest concentration is in the southwestern city of Mokpo, which in recent years has transformed from little more than a provincial backwater into a destination with its own salty charm, thanks to increased government funding.

It is possible to admire the islands near Mokpo without leaving the mainland. There are viewing points around Yudalsan, a small mountain within walking distance of the train station. It is also the starting point of Mokpo Sea Cable Carextending two miles across the water to the small island of Gohado. Here, visit the Gohado Observatory to see some of the best views. When you return to Mokpo, consider visiting this place. National Maritime Heritage Research Museummore. It focuses on local seas, but its main attraction are the artifacts found on two shipwrecks that sank here in the 11th and 14th centuries, including willow green bowls.

The islands closest to Mokpo are some of the most pristine in the region. The best is little Oedaldo; An hour by ferry from the city, you’ll find sandy Oedaldo Beach and Oedaldo Hanok Village. So few visitors come to this island that the few businesses operating here (simple guesthouses, quaint restaurants and shops) are often unstaffed. There will be phone numbers in the windows, but the owners may not be nearby. This is a far cry from the comforts of Seoul, or any Korean city, and can come as a refreshing change.

Further west lies the Sinan District archipelago, home to 111 inhabited islands, some protected as part of Dadohaehaesang National Park and almost all accessible by ferry or road from Mokpo. Life flows at a calm pace in these regions; Fishing is still the main source of income; this is made clear by the lights of the distant squid boats that shine like shooting stars on the horizon every night.

In recent years, many Sinan islands have been connected to the mainland’s road network by a series of bridges. One area has become particularly popular: Purple Island, despite its name, actually consists of two islets (Banwoldo and Bakjido) connected to the larger Anjwado by pedestrian bridges and can be reached by bus from Mokpo in about three hours. The bridges and almost everything you’ll see here are purple: rooftops, cafes like Purple Island Cafe, and even flowers.

But the most popular islands are the most remote. Located 60 miles west of the mainland and almost two hours away by ferry, Heuksando is its own miniature archipelago. Its forested islands provide magnificent walking areas, but most visitors tour the coastline on boat tours from the main port of Yeri. Heuksando is also famous for its fermented hongeo; but if you’re not used to the taste, you’re more likely to enjoy the unfermented variety served like sashimi. Another 25 miles to the west is Hongdo (‘Red Island’), named after the pigmentation of its cliffs. It rises dramatically to almost 1,300 ft, with its main village spreading out onto a saddle-like rise.

In both Heuksando and Hongdo, the South Korean mainland feels distant in more ways than one. When the last ferry leaves, you are stranded for the night; Sometimes you will be stranded even longer if ferry services are canceled due to bad weather conditions. But there are much worse places between these emerald islands and their ocean peaks.