Known for its lavish tables and opulent interiors that catered to the city’s elite and European elite, Firpo’s may have closed in the ’60s, but the legacy of maverick Italian restaurateur Angelo Firpo lives on. CT contacted his great-nephew, Dr., to find out more. He caught up with Enrico De Barbieri on his first trip to Calcutta.

Barbieri grew up hearing stories about Angelo Firpo and was so fascinated by the anecdotes that it was difficult for him to see Firpo as just a family member. “I am Angelo Firpo’s great-nephew. My mother was his favorite nephew. “I grew up listening to stories about Firpo, who seemed to me like a mythological figure from another era, revered as a completely different character,” Barbieri recalls. “I started collecting information and news articles about him. uncle because I wanted to highlight his work on a global level.”

Marketing pioneer and go-to person for all things food related

According to Barbieri, Firpo’s was the most popular restaurant in the region stretching from Cairo to Shanghai and had 500 employees. “He was the official caterer and go-to person for the Viceroys and Viceroys of India for five consecutive years. “This was not only due to the exceptional quality of the food, but also because he was a pioneer in marketing and understood that the key to successful business lies in strategic promotion,” explained Barbieri. Firpo was a visionary and always focused on customer satisfaction. Along with service and cleanliness, the customer was always his greatest priority. “It was a priority.”

‘He would have been astonished by Calcutta’s independence’

Reflecting on Firpo’s important role in introducing jazz music to Kolkata and injecting continental and Italian touches into the city’s cuisine, Barbieri also shared other things that may have influenced the legend. “Kolkata’s sense of independence would astound Angelo Firpo,” he joked. In contrast, Italian Consul General in Calcutta, Riccardo Dalla Costa, added: “Firpo would have admired the standards he set in the city and the way the people of Calcutta continued to live up to those standards.”

‘A new Bengal Renaissance must take place and Angelo Firpo will serve as the gateway to the future through me. A gateway to dialogue, cooperation and mutual respect is required. ‘Calcutta is the soul of India and can be a gateway through which India can progress in the future’
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Enrico De Barbieri

Firpo’s legacy is very much alive in the city and we are committed to promoting what gives Kolkata meaning, what the city values ​​and what represents Italy. This part of India has seen an exodus of Italians, remarkable not in terms of numbers but for the lasting impact they left.

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Riccardo Dalla Costa

Founded around 1917 by Italian entrepreneur Angelo Firpo, Firpo’s Restaurant in Calcutta became a favorite of royalty and high society. Known for his refined cuisine, Firpo opened a patisserie called Firpo’s Restaurant and a tea room with a popular catering service. This served the Viceroy of India, Lord Irwin, the maharajas and other dignitaries. The Governor-General and his officials dined here every Sunday, making it a special hangout for the city’s elite. The restaurant featured European cabaret acts and a live orchestra consisting of a full string quartet with trumpets, saxophones, trombones and drums. The dance floor was the only sprung floor in India and offered extra lifting space for dancers who waltzed and tangoed throughout the night. Apart from this, the restaurant had its own unique features:
>Their a la carte menus did not have separate price items, instead they maintained a predetermined menu known as ‘Table d’hote’. Here a wide variety of meals with limited options were charged at a fixed total price.
>The five-course meal was always served with excellent options
> The Lido room treated its guests to six cabarets in one night, with Arati Das, the first Bengali dancer to become famous as the cabaret queen in the sixties.

Remembering Firpo in Chowringhee

Dignitaries from across the city attended the event and recalled fond memories of the iconic venue.
‘At Firpo you can get a free sausage with a bottle of beer. At that time, I used to go there with my two friends. ‘We made sure to order a bottle of beer at a time because that meant free sausages with every bottle.’

-Mmchatrath

‘My mother-in-law often told me about the four-course lunch at Firpo’s that costs just 2 rupees 12 annas. I remember enjoying waffles and special ice cream on the Chowringhee balcony. When my husband and I were dating, Firpo’s had closed, but the Lido Room was still open. ‘Every time we entered the band would start playing, which made the atmosphere feel personal and special.’

-Anita Mukherjee

‘When I went to Firpo’s in my 20s, beer cost half a rupee. I used to go there with my father and aunt, but I never went there at night.’

-Pankaj Parekh

‘One time my grandparents went to Firpo for food and my grandfather noticed he had no dentures. Thereupon a carriage was sent to the house to collect the teeth, and they were brought to him on a plate by a gentleman in white gloves, who said ‘your teeth, sir’.

-Nayana Gangooly