During Diwali week, a newspaper report of fireworks bursting surprised and shocked heritage lovers. A historical monument, albeit a relatively minor one, had collapsed in Agra. It was a tower standing on the banks of the Yamuna River and dated back to the golden age of Agra; At that time, it was one of the most important cities of the Mughal empire, including its capital.

There are 67 monuments in the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) list for the Agra district. Number 32 on this list is now a wreck. This was the corner tower of Zahara Bagh, mentioned in the ASI list as ‘Zohra Bagh and riverside kiosk’. The newspaper mistakenly dated the date to 1526; this was the date when Babur first arrived in Agra after his victory over Lodis. According to detailed research by historian Ebba Koch, the Bagh in question was built about a century later, under the patronage of Mumtaz Mahal, wife of Mughal Prince Khurram and later empress when Khurram ascended to the throne as Shah Jahan.

According to a 17th-century map Ebba Koch found in a museum in Jaipur, Zahara Bagh was one of several walled gardens built next to the Yamuna in Agra during that century. Many of the others, such as Zahara Bagh, were created either under the patronage of members of the Mughal imperial family or high nobility. Near the Bagh lies Chini ka Rauza, the tomb of a senior nobleman. A short distance away is the magnificent tomb of Itmad-ud-daulah, father of Empress Nur Jahan. Therefore, Bagh was in an area intended for the elite of the empire.

Except it’s not called Zahara Bagh! After Mumtaz Mahal, the Bagh was handed over to her eldest daughter Princess Jahanara and named after her. ‘Jahanara’ evolved into ‘Zahara’ over time. Even worse, some call it ‘Zohra’. Names aside, the real tragedy of heritage-rich places like Agra is that many pieces of their past tend to fly under the radar of those responsible for their care. Lack of sufficient funds is a major reason, as is lack of initiative and passion.

Perhaps the biggest flaw in India’s approach to heritage management is that it tends to be monument-centric, looking at individual structures rather than the larger ecosystem of which they are a part (an ecosystem that may, in fact, have given birth to the monument itself). In this approach, monuments significant in terms of historical significance or size receive all the attention and funds. Smaller ones like ‘Zahara’ Bagh are tasked with proving that God really exists somewhere.

Agra was once a city full of such gardens and havelis, huge mansions where nobles and wealthy citizens resided. Most were intact even at the beginning of the 18th century. Since then, events such as the gradual decline and final collapse of the Mughals and the Partition, combined with the corrupt lifestyle of the nobles, ruined them; This led to the gardens being gradually abandoned and the manors being sold to anyone who could afford to pay, often to wealthy merchants. . Over time, the manors were sold in pieces to different buyers, or some were occupied by families simply looking to resettle. Old, elegant features such as towers and domes were replaced by new walls, demolished to make room for functional rooms, and soon all structural integrity was lost. While exploring Agra today, we see the ruins of many similar lost structures.

Starting from the now lost corner tower ‘Zahara’ Bagh itself. Two months ago it stood high; It rose three stories above the ground floor and was topped by a dome (as shown in the front picture). Now only the ground floor remains under the pile of rubble.

Visitor a short drive from Bagh chauburji. Generally, the door of the walled settlement housing this structure is locked. But when you take a look inside, you see a square-shaped tomb inside. This is believed to be Babur’s original tomb before his body was exhumed and taken to Kabul.

On the same side of the river lies a village KachhpuraIt was considered a not-so-safe part of the city due to some so-called anti-social elements residing there. An earlier period witnessed the construction of a mosque by Humayun. The building is still in use.

Etmadpur: Located on the Tundla road outside Agra, this place was once an opulent complex with a tomb on one side of a large body of water. An octagonal pavilion stands in the middle of a body of water, connected to the edge of the tank by a causeway. In the tomb lies a nobleman named Itimad Khan, who died around 1578. It appears that in the late 19th century, British troops used this place to camp, carving their names and dates into the walls, making their graffiti now a part of our history.

Fatahabad: A small complex lies in the east of the city of Agra, named after Aurangzeb’s victory over Dara Shikoh. Some of the buildings here had been converted into a government medical facility when this writer last visited here. Some of the elegant pavilions in the complex have been overgrown and fragmented by vegetation.

Tel Firoz Khan: Originally a village on the Gwalior road just outside Agra, this village has now been absorbed into the growing city. The village was founded around the tomb of a Mughal nobleman named Firoz Khan, a eunuch who may have served Shah Jahan. His magnificent red sandstone tomb, built on two floors and richly decorated, still stands. The water body (‘tal’) is now full of garbage and has greatly reduced in size. It may soon disappear, taking away part of the monument’s ecosystem, leaving visitors wondering about the name of the village.

Suraj Bhan ka Bagh: Located near Akbar’s tomb in Sikandra, this monument is strangely located in a locked compound in private hands. Although no trace remains of the Bagh, a large gateway made of richly carved red sandstone stands on its exterior.

Ladli Begum Tomb: This is the classic example of a monument that no longer exists and whose existence is now just legend. The tomb is said to be on the old road from Agra to Delhi. There is no sign of this yet!

Some accounts, dating back more than a century, say that the tomb was sold to wealthy merchants from Mathura who destroyed it, using the land for different purposes. There are also doubts as to whose grave this is, given that the only known Ladli Begum, Nur Jahan’s daughter from her first marriage, was buried next to her mother in Lahore.

These examples are just a few from a city with hundreds of vulnerable monuments. And unlike these, many of them do not have a billboard next to them declaring that the state protects their assets. These structures, which are as much a part of the city’s history as the Taj, need documentation and some protection to survive. It is hoped that the loss of ‘Zahara’ Bagh will mobilize some people.

The author is a heritage researcher with a penchant for searching for unknown places. A brand consultant by profession, he tweets at @HiddenHeritage. The views expressed in the article above are personal and belong solely to the author. These do not necessarily reflect Firstpost’s views.