As a wine writer who visits Madrid frequently, I have discovered that this elegant capital is one of the best eating cities in the world. Despite its enviable royal air, Madrid’s tourism pressure is lower, making dining out more affordable. Although many Spanish regions claim the origin of tapas, this appetizer tradition is firmly entrenched in Spanish culture. Must-eats include salty-sweet Jamón Ibérico strips, crispy patatas bravas, blistered padrón peppers and cod-stuffed croquettes, all washed down with delicious, affordable wines.

La Venice

No photos, no reservations and service as creaky as century-old floorboards, La Venencia’s appeal is undeniable. It is one of the best sherry and tapas bars in Madrid to evoke a traditional spirit. Tabanco (tavern) in Jerez de la Frontera. Sometimes it’s packed, sometimes a rickety wooden table, plate of manchego and chorizo ​​and jug of fino are as easy as paying the extremely affordable check.

Bar La Paloma

I never let the crowded, brightly lit utilitarian space deter me from entering—if anything, these signs point to La Paloma’s sole focus: fresh, affordable shellfish and cheap draft beer. While wandering around the La Latina neighborhood, I’ll stop by for grilled shrimp (gambas plancha), a plate of scallops (almejas), and a glass of white vermouth. I’ll do like the Spaniards do, eat standing at the bar, then go on my way.

Mercado de San Anton

I love markets, especially in Madrid, where I can browse the stalls for tapas while sipping a glass of Rioja from the comfort of indoors. This upscale food hall in the festive Chueca district has a traditional market on the ground floor and vendors serving a variety of snack classics on the second floor, from salty-sweet jamon, crispy croquettes and Spanish cheese; I also have plenty of seating. I want to eat and rest my feet.

Mercado de San Miguel

Madrid has great food markets (mercados), but none offer the historic wrought iron and glass aesthetic of San Miguel. The market, which was first opened in 1916 and renovated in 2009, attracts a large number of tourists, which causes prices to increase. But the festive atmosphere, 20 food stalls and plenty of seating make up for it. My flights to New York land earlier than hotel check-in, so I’ll spend the morning in San Miguel—when it’s least crowded—with a glass of Cava, a jamón bocadillo (sandwich), and a fried seafood cone.

Bodega de la Ardosa

I don’t go here for friendly service, but a little Spanish goes a long way with rude and busy staff. Instead, I make a beeline for 131-year-old vintage vibes and Española, Madrid’s best tortilla; A soft, delicious sensation where eggs and potatoes are served in a slice of cake. I order artichokes when they are in season. They changed my mind about this spiky vegetable soaked in olive oil until soft, then fried on a hot plancha. The place gets crowded, so I check if there are tables in the back room.

La Perejila

Everyone should wander around Java Baja on an empty stomach at least once. This is The, tapas street with a capital T, and La Perejila stands out from the crowd. I know I’ve arrived when I see the forest green doors decorated with holiday red. The whimsical ambience continues inside, with chandeliers, pothos plants in the background and a mural featuring flamenco dancers. If I’m on a tapas trip, I’ll order lighter dishes like juicy gazpacho and sweet paprika-crusted octopus and a pitcher of sangria.

ViCool

Madrid is full of old-school tapas bars. While fun, sometimes I crave a contemporary twist on a sit-down restaurant. I go to Vi Cool for this. The menu changes regularly, adding international flavors to Spanish dishes such as fried shrimp with curry and mint or kimchi chicken wings. While the wine list is short, Vi Cool offers a nice selection, from Albariño to Tempranillo for an incredible $5-$6 a glass. The menu offers an ingredient key for travelers with dietary restrictions.