Reviewed by Pete Wells noortwyck inside New York Times Last November, he wrote that Chef Andy Quinn “finds the middle ground between glamor and mediocrity,” adding that he is “meticulous and meticulous, possessing a wide range of skills and a minimalist sensibility that requires much of what the job entails.” technical stuff quietly slipping into dishes that seem simple and understandable, even if they are not.”

Robert Sietsma, eaterHe wrote in April 2023 that Noortwyck was a “handsome but ordinary restaurant” that “may sound arrogant; it is not at all.”

Clearly, Quinn was overseeing restaurant arranged dinner dates for many people New Yorkersand others who took a walk to try the food – a smart move, of course

Chef Andrew “Andy” Quinn, who grew up in Leicester, England before moving to the United States to work at New York’s famed Eleven Madison Park, opened The Noortwyck in 2022 with co-owner and sommelier Cedric Nicaise. As all chefs should be, Quinn is meticulous about the food served in his restaurant.

Quinn recently shared that the restaurant’s ethos is “quality comes first.” Named after the original Dutch settlement in Manhattan where it is located, The Noortwyck offers a “timeless, New American” menu that is obvious at first glance. (He is also fond of the bread course, which I adore!)

Quinn also spoke to Salon about the restaurant’s opening, the differences between the US and UK dining scenes, signature dishes, efforts to reduce food waste and his plans for Noortwyck’s future.

The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length.

How did you bring your experiences at Hibiscus and Eleven Madison Park to Noortwyck?

My entire culinary background, as well as my time at Hibiscus and EMP, has been based on advanced technology, precision techniques and classical training. Working with the best ingredients has helped foster a culture of innovation in my cooking. At The Noortwyck, I took these refined techniques I learned with high-quality ingredients and presented them in a much more approachable, affordable way, creating an inviting atmosphere that feels approachable for a casual neighborhood restaurant.

All Noortwyck menus look amazing! I love that there is also a dish with albufera sauce on the menu, and I think it’s always underutilized. Practically every item is just mouthwatering. How do you normally approach menu development?

Menu development is driven by seasons and local markets. Although there are a few classic dishes on the menu that our guests love and do not change, new ideas often arise from what comes fresh from the market. We aim to keep the menu dynamic and reflective of what is available.

Can you tell me a little about how you worked with Cedric Nicaise and how this partnership helped define Noortwyck’s culinary identity?

Trust is the biggest tenant of Cedric and my working relationship. We respect each other’s particular areas of expertise; The kitchen is my identity, the wine and everything front of house is his. Cedric would never dictate what went on and off the menu, just as I would never tell Cedric how the dining room should be run or what was on the wine list. This collaborative approach allows us to maintain distinct culinary identities while enhancing the overall experience.

I would like to know a little about this name, which I know means “Northern Territory”.

This name comes from our desire to honor tradition and history at the beginning of the project. The neighborhood was originally colloquially called Noortwyck and was geographically the northern district of the Dutch settlement of Manhattan in 1624.

The website states that the restaurant “features a timeless, new American menu focused on NY Producers and purveyors, along with an extensive and entertaining wine list.” Can you elaborate on this a bit?

By “timeless” we mean the menu features recognizable, approachable dishes that appeal to a wide audience. “New American” refers to the cuisine being influenced by all the cultures currently found in New York. We keep the wine list extensive and fun, showcasing exciting selections and offering options to suit every taste and palette.

My brother always had an obsession with Beef Wellington. Can you tell us a little about the process behind you?

We prepare everything from scratch. On Wednesdays we buy our veal, clean it, and on Thursdays we create all the necessary ingredients, including crepes, mushroom duxelle, and puff pastry. It is rolled and chilled on Fridays, with the finishing touches applied on Saturday, so it is ready to roast by Sunday afternoon.

What do you think of Noortwyck’s ethos?

Quality prevails.

Do you have a personal “signature dish” at the restaurant? It could be the best seller, it could be the person you have the most personal connection with. — It’s up to you!

Whatever pasta is on the menu at that moment. I think it’s something we stumbled upon here by chance. Although I have no formal training in pasta making, it is a personal passion that developed here in an unexpected way. There is always a lot of emotion involved in making pasta, it’s a very personal thing and I think it shows in every pasta dish we serve here.

I love the sound of baking bread. Is this something that changes frequently?

I love bread and when opening the restaurant it was very important that we had fresh bread made at home. I have to thank Chef Ileene for creating our famous Seeded Parker House Loaf, which was initially an experiment and has now become a beloved part of the menu and something we cannot change. So, to answer your question, our bread is not something that changes very often.

I’m a cheese guy through and through and I see so many great varieties on your menu. How do you go about ensuring you source the highest quality cheeses?

We hold regular tastings with purveyors like Chef Collective and Natoora from Brooklyn and Murray’s Cheese across the street. Every few months they bring us cheese to taste and we usually find something to suit our menu, always looking for exciting flavors or stories to share.

Currently on the menu is a “Whitney” cheese made at Jasper Hills Creamery in Vermont. The cool thing is that it’s a European-style Alpine cheese and made from unpasteurized cow’s milk, which is pretty unique in the US, and I knew I wanted to get it on the menu.

How do you distinguish restaurant culture from the UK to the US?

In my experience, New York emphasizes a more holistic dining experience. The wine, service, drinks, ambiance and atmosphere are just as important as the food or price you pay. Everything plays a part in the experience.

I feel like food is given way more importance than anything else in London. Whenever I go back to London I’m always a little surprised at the level of service. I’ve been to some places that have great food, but they don’t have cocktail programs or the atmosphere. On the other hand, in New York you can eat at a restaurant where it’s impossible to get a reservation but the food isn’t very good; In London, if the food isn’t great, the restaurant won’t last long.

When it comes to customer base, diners in the UK seem to be more open-minded about trying different flavors or cuisines, whereas New Yorkers know exactly what they want and will find it.

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Do you have a number one favorite material to work with?

Foie gras is my favourite. I love its versatility; You can prepare it hot or cold and turn it into mousse or ice cream. It’s something not commonly found on menus due to its high cost, but there are ways to incorporate it into dishes to add a piece of luxury you don’t get every day.

At The Noortwyck, we also include the foie gras butter that pairs with our Duck Buns in the albufera sauce of our chicken dish. It has always been one of my favorite things to do.

Is there a menu item that stands out to you across all your restaurants? Or is it something that particularly resonates with customers?

Probably duck. It has become another signature dish of our menu. Every great chef I’ve ever worked with has had their own signature duck dish, and it’s always been a featured menu item at those restaurants. I challenged myself to create my own version and create a dish that blended the various techniques I’ve learned over the years.

What stands out to you as a formative moment that led you to cooking or food in general?

Cooking for my siblings when I was little definitely helped shape my passion for cooking. My parents worked full time, so it was up to one of us to cook for the other two of us, and I didn’t enjoy the meals either of my siblings made, so I decided to take charge. I soon discovered that I was pretty good at it, which fueled my enjoyment and satisfaction in cooking.

What would you say are your three most used ingredients?

Butter, Calabrian pepper and sherry vinegar.

What is your favorite cooking memory?

Grilling outside on a beach with good friends and cold beer!

What’s your biggest tip for reducing food waste?

Avoid overordering. Many places tend to order too much food, which often ends up being thrown away or spoiled. For me, it’s much easier to buy smaller quantities and make them last a long time than to buy a lot of something and figure out how to use it or make it last.

How do you implement sustainability in your food and restaurants?

We use all materials as much as possible. All our protein comes whole, be it fish, duck or chicken. We shred them as needed and reuse the leftovers to make sauces, stocks, or other dishes. For example, for our dry-aged duck breasts, we buy the ducks whole and use the legs for the filling of our duck muffins.

Can a non-drinker still enjoy any N/A wine and cocktail offerings at The Noortwyck?

Definitely. We’re famous for our Shift Drink, a non-alcoholic option that sells almost as well as our regular cocktails. We have a very strong and robust Cocktail and beer program.

What’s next? For Noortwyck?

We intend to continue to develop the team and culture at The Noortwyck. As we continue to build on our classic dishes and introduce exciting new dishes to our loyal customer base, we’re excited to explore new opportunities outside of these four walls.