Fine dining has an image problem. His tendency to take himself too seriously makes him suitable for parody in films such as: Menu. But the era of stuffy, uptight waiters is dying a joyless death and is being replaced by a much more enthusiastic, friendly and cheerful alternative. It’s something that feels decidedly Australian at its best.

Take Vue de monde, a restaurant almost synonymous with Australian fine dining. Eating there a few years ago was a constant barrage of “YES CHEF!” It was a nerve-wracking experience that included being startled by his screams. of the cooks in the open kitchen, plus the way those same cooks walked up to a row of dining tables and described them with intense solemnity. It felt like hard work rather than fun.

These days, dining at Vue is more like a party; A party hosted by charming characters who want to help you celebrate no matter the occasion. Servers and cooks come to your table as themselves, rather than surly robots spouting facts and techniques. Wine director Dorian Guillon, restaurant manager Rajnor Soin, and executive chef Hugh Allen set the tone, bringing a cheerful, welcoming, and enthusiastic presence to every interaction.

In a post-pandemic world where connection is even more valuable, what could be more luxurious, more special than a genuine welcome from charming hosts?

It’s this sense of joy that I noticed at many of the top-rated restaurants last year, during my visits as a restaurant chef critic. Age.

At Amaru, the three-hat restaurant in Melbourne’s Armadale, staff had real conversations with customers, sticking around as long as the connection lasted rather than rushing away; It was clear that this type of connection was considered part of the job, not a thing. You can pause the work to achieve success.

In a post-pandemic world where connection is even more valuable, what could be more luxurious, more special than a genuine welcome from charming hosts?

This attitude and greeting style may seem effortless and spontaneous, but in most cases it is carefully considered. I spoke to Josh Niland in the early weeks of the new iteration of Saint Peter’s (currently three-hatted) Sydney restaurant, and he told me that the main question he and his team were asking themselves was: “What is modern Australia doing?” What does the luxury look and feel look like?” And the answer was linked to kindness, sincerity and sharing.

“The increase in hospitality was a big part of St. Peter’s going three hats this year.” SMH Food critic Callan Boys tells me. ‘Unlike the sensitive and at times robotic service typical of three-Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe and North America, Saint Peter’s style of hospitality is more of a casual conversation between the housekeeping staff and guests.’ How was your day?’ Service style.”

Boys credits much of that style of service to Quay, saying Quay has perfected the knowledgeable, friendly attitude in the context of fine dining “for over two decades.”

This style of service goes hand in hand with another change that has occurred in this country in the last decade; In this shift, top chefs and restaurateurs look more distinctly Australian.

We see this in the most exciting menus: turning to indigenous ingredients and local history rather than imitating European or American tropes. We see Australian wines and spirits on top drinks lists. And in the best service these days, I see a uniquely Australian version of hospitality: the casual professionalism perhaps born of our thriving cafe culture; the friendly banter we know from our corner bars.

It may seem counterintuitive to think that these qualities can translate into fine dining, but many of our most successful service professionals worked in cafes, pubs and bars. Isn’t the point of a great cafe or bar to create a sense of community and connection? When you take these qualities and combine them with true knowledge and passion, something magical happens, no matter the venue.

Is it a stretch to think of a tenor, a particularly Australian mood, especially in relation to food? I don’t think so. I recently spoke with Ambrose Chiang, manager of ACRU restaurant in New York, which opened this month and bills itself as an Australian tasting menu restaurant.

What makes it Australian, apart from its head chef (a Tassie boy)? “ACRU has Australian hospitality at its core,” Chiang told me. “This speaks louder than any Australian ingredients or techniques written on the menu.”

The word “hospitality” has become a synonym for the entire industry (especially in Australia; “hospo”—whether in its abbreviated form or not—describes the restaurant business here more commonly than anywhere else), but this vernacular has a point.

Food can be many things, but at its core, it is the meeting of fun and togetherness, and at its best, it is infused with joy rather than pretension. It is a matter of great pride and celebration that Australian service professionals are leading the way on these fronts.

Meet the Good Food Guide service awards finalists

The winners of The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2025 Awards, presented by Vittoria Coffee and Oceania Cruises, will be announced on 11 November. Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2025 It will be available starting from November 12.

The winners of The Age Good Food Guide 2025 Awards, presented by Vittoria Coffee and Oceania Cruises, will be announced on November 18. Age Good Food Guide 2025 It will be available starting from November 19.