What are the new retinol rules?

The EU has passed new legislation limiting the amount of retinol that can be used in ready-made skincare.

Face and hand products can contain no more than 0.3% retinol, while body products are limited to only 0.05% (both less than 1%).

Anything stronger will be phased out with a three-year grace period from the end of this year.

If you’re wondering why this affects us after Brexit, it’s because the UK has chosen to comply with a lot of EU legislation.

Has retinol suddenly turned out to be dangerous?

No, the new rules are designed to reduce the known risk of overexposure to vitamin A, of which retinol is a derivative.

Dr., a general practitioner and aesthetic doctor at The Phi Clinic. “Vitamin A is vital for things like immunity, skin health and vision, but too much can lead to toxicity and problems like osteoporosis and liver damage,” says Priya Verma.

“It’s important to remember that diet and supplements are the main sources of vitamin A, but the amount absorbed from skin care is much lower.

“The new guidelines take a ‘worst case’ approach: A small number of people who already consume excessive amounts of Vitamin A are increasing their exposure through massive overuse of topical retinol.

“If you are using more than 0.3% retinol from a reputable brand and following the instructions, this is extremely unlikely. It will be a cause for concern.”

Will my retinol products become less effective in the future?

“Not at all,” says Dr. Shotter.

“For most people, 0.3% is a good and effective concentration,” Dr Halliley adds.

“Even lower concentrations can be quite effective. Effectiveness depends not only on the strength of a retinol product, but also on how it is formulated, the ingredients it is paired with, and how it is absorbed.”

Formulations above 0.3% will continue to be available by prescription. “

If you need these high levels for skin conditions like acne, see a specialist.

Alternatively, consider ‘dermatology doorstep’ services such as GetHarley.com and And Begin, who can prescribe appropriate retinoids via online consultation.

These six super vitamin A products already pass new regulations

No7 Pure Retinol, Vitamin C and SPF 30 Day Cream, £39.95

Slow-release 0.1% retinol: good for beginners and allows you to wear vital SPF.

The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane, £7.40

It’s a very accessible way to try retinol.

Skinsense 0.3% Retinol Serum, £39

The double-capsule delivery system delivers the new maximum power by dripping it into the skin.

Medik8 Crystal Retina from £45

Fast acting with various strengths and, like all retinals, unaffected by new rules.

Dr Sam’s Flawless Overnight Pro, £60

Granactive retinoid (aka HPR) plus niacinamide and bakuchiol provide effect without irritation.

And Start Serum With Cream, £39.99

It offers prescription-only tretinoin at a level chosen for you through an online derm consultation.