Gus & Marty’s is in Williamsburg.
Illustration: Naomi Otsu

Welcome to Grub Street’s list of restaurant recommendations aimed at answering the ever-repeated question: Where should we go? These are places our food team thinks everyone should visit for one reason or another (a new chef, the arrival of an exciting dish, or perhaps an overlooked opening). This month: Astoria’s newest seafood market, a standout Greek restaurant in Williamsburg, and a Soho hotspot specializing in comfort and a sense of ceremony.

Le Petit Pecheur (Astoria)
Astoria is New York’s premier neighborhood for seafood restaurants, with Greek taverns and famous fish markets to choose from. Enter Le Petit Pêcheur, a new Algerian alternative opened by owners Merguez and Frites (Entry number 4 in this guide…). The new restaurant is a decorated, cheerful place with an ocean blue ceiling and music reminiscent of a summer evening in the Mediterranean. Ordering is a two-part process: Seafood is selected at the front of the register; sides and drinks on the table. Get the calamari Provençal, one of three “signature” styles – a smoky and lemony dish of olives and calamari. Grilled red snapper comes carefully charred on the grill with a ribbon in the middle with a sauce of basil, coriander, lemon and roasted garlic. Some sides (the requisite, tender lemon potatoes) are lean Greek, while others are Algerian (roasted red pepper sauce called hammis). But the thing that will really make you ache is hidden among the fish fillets: Börek. Fried golden brown, two types of olives, tomatoes, peppers, parsley, super creamy Laughing Cow cheese, and stuffed with shrimp or black sea bass. —Chris Crowley

Gus and Marty’s (Williamsburg)
If the north end of McCarren Park is moving Brooklynites to the suburbs — it’s Applebee’s Bernie’s, fake honky-tonk Ray’s – the southern tip can now take you to Greece. Gus & Marty’s is the Egg Shop’s second restaurant from husband-and-wife team Sarah Schneider and Demetri Makoulis, with a quiet design and a menu firmly set in “crowd-pleasing” mode. Saganaki may be sweeter than other versions you’ve had, while crispy anchovies manage to be both timeless and totally on-trend. My lamb gyro was juicy and served in a pita heavily sprinkled with za’atar, like many pitas in the city now. “Baklava Sundays” also appeal to the Zeitgeist – I liked this one at Gus & Marty’s as much as the similar event they held. Theodora. —Zach Schiffman

cora (West Village)
I’m sad to see Silver Apricot, Simone Tong’s charming Chinese restaurant on Cornelia Street, no longer exist, but Cora is a happy heir. (Tong left; managing partner Emmeline Zhao remains.) In some ways, Apricot’s quietly-cooked casual Cora seems like a more natural fit for the cramped, slightly space-age space: A few small dishes and a main course or two, you’re still left wondering who’s in charge Esoteric touches that remind you that you are. Cavatelli has seaweed, and butter radish has goat kefir. But my favorites are the ones you might find on your dinner table at home: sunflower pull-out rolls, crispy rainbow trout Milanese. Would you scare that trout at home with smoked gribiche? Probably not. But that’s the subtle difference between homey and homey. Cora lives there. —Matthew Schneier

heroes (Soho)
This guide will be published in the first week of November, and the world will be a very different place just a few days after it is published. How will we all feel? Will we celebrate the end of this election with celebratory steaks and champagne, or self-medicate with comfort foods and anxiety-numbing cocktails? Either scenario, Ariel Arce’s new Soho venue would fit the mood. Chef Aaron Lirette has a unique talent for rethinking familiar ideas by reinventing them just enough to keep things interesting: miniature pancakes hiding a pile of peekytoe crab, bread with a buttery, yeasty brioche popover flavored with black garlic, with bone marrow-enriched Béarnaise thinly shaved veal tongue skewers. The network is designed for two people to share. dry aged sea bass fillet With a white beurre-like sauce with chile sauce, dry-aged steak, and a gorgeous presentation of chicken (now a necessity for every Manhattan restaurant). Wash this down with wine (there are lots of them) or cocktails; A section of the menu has been transformed into banana-flavored drinks, an apt description of how most people are feeling these days. —Alan Sytsma

Kaew Jao Jorm (Bushwick)
One of the last to join New York The continuing boom of excellent Thai restaurants It can be found just a few blocks from the Graham Avenue stop in Bushwick. Although Kaew Jao Jorm offers takeaway and delivery, the narrow restaurant, which seats around 20 people, has a particularly cozy ambiance, enhanced by floor-length curtains that create a sense of coziness in the construction-heavy industrial area. Order the flaky mackerel tossed with a significant amount of thinly sliced ​​lemongrass and hot red chile, served on a bed of herbs and romaine lettuce framed with a crisp head, or order the delectable flower-shaped chicken and pistachio dumplings encased in a chewy blue batter. The pomelo salad is one of the best I’ve ever had, with the fleshy parts of the aromatic fruit covered in shallots, mint and lemon leaves, all slathered in a thick, syrupy dressing. (The thick sauce was replicated with a sticky tamarind sauce over duck and Chinese broccoli.) To go with it all, there’s tender jasmine rice made from an elaborate metal bowl, ladled, and made with a little extra, just like in Thailand. , my host said. —Tammie Teclemariam